This land is not like the central European region. Edge of
volcanoes and wild bears, sea lions, walruses, salmons, caviar and crabs, the
wildlife - it is Kamchatka, the farthest end of the earth. Active volcanoes
shake the earth, hot sulfurous steam fumaroles stings eyes, gurgling streams,
geyser explodes on the lake, and you feel that under your feet - a living
For years, I was going to travel to Kamchatka, and now I go!
Kamchatka - it is very good, and not for once.
The route is: Petropavlovsk, the capital of Kamchatka - on a boat on Avacha Bay - moving towards Tolbachik
volcanoes with an overnight stay in Kozyrevskaya - camp at the base of volcanologists near volcanoes Pointed and
Flat Tolbachik - Radial hikes - moving to Esso and rafting and fishing - moving
under Mutnovsky volcano - Climbing to the Mutnovsky and Gorely volcanoes -
moving to a camp near Avachinsky volcano - the Valley of Geysers.
Almost 20 days in September.
It was quite warm, no mosquitoes, sunny.
There are 2 volcanoes visible from Avacha Bay - Viluchinsky and Avacha
The first day of the travel. We are moving towards volcanoes - first there was
an asphalt road, then mound. We have a
good, very good car. After Kozyrevsk the road is about this:
It is a good forest road. Mushrooms grow around the road - aspen, boletus, and
any berries: cranberries, blueberries, shiksha, even red currant.
A base of volcanologists near Tolbachik volcanoes - log house with an
appropriate label and LEDs around the helipad.
Abandoned moose antlers lie in front of the house, a little eaten by wild
beasts. The Waterfall river flows close to the house.
Here it is, cowberry. It is early September - good time for travel to Kamchatka.
The berries are ripe, the land
around is bright - the moss is red and orange, various ripe berries are blue,
red, and the grass is still green. Cedar branches lie on the ground - the bumps
are edible too (pine nuts).
Our guides set up a camp: unload things from the car, put up a tent for dining
room, foldable furniture, backpacks, food and beer. In the evening we are
drinking excellent Kamchatka beer with great view to the volcan Tolbachik.
Our base camp near Pointed and Flat Tolbachik volcanoes
The next day of our travel. The first radial access - to "the stone fingers." I am not good
enough walker, but climbed back and forth properly. Next day - according to plan
- climbing to Flat Tolbachik, for the day. However, "tomorrow" - one of the rare
days when the weather is not allowed to rise closer to the volcano - it is
raining, fog, wind. We drank beer and walked around the neighborhood.
There are some interesting things near the camp:
Then we went to the young volcanic cones, the slag fields, in dead forest - it
was strewn with slag and burned during the last eruption of Flat Tolbachik.
Landscapes are "Martian".
That someone joked:
It is the slag field - the dead land.
Here it is - the dead forest. In conjunction with the sun and haze it looks
mysterious. Crow's not croak, there are not of living beings except for
Here strewn wreckage of the helicopter MI-2, which once unsuccessfully has flied
up or landed.
There was many volcanic cones around, and we climbed on a couple of them.
It smells of sulfur, the earth is warm, our feet sink into the slag to the
ankle. It is comfortably to move out down with these cones - like skiing.
That's a view down from one of the cones - our car is so small at the bottom.
And Sharp Tolbachik is in the background.
That's a view down from one of the cones.
Invisible haze in the air make the photos a little hazy.
Here are typical: the streams flowing from the volcano when snow is melting make
It's like the feet of dinosaurs.